KL

What’s there to do in Kuala Lumpur apart from eating, shopping and freezing in hotels with non-adjustable air conditioning? Nothing much really. Petronas Towers, the landmark of KL, although impressive in the night time, is essentially just another skyscraper. Batu caves, a Hindu cave temple, in the outskirts of the city, which I immensely enjoyed from my previous trip to KL six years ago, has now been swollen by the city. Back then it was surrounded by crop fields and low profile shacks and you had to take a train and a bus to reach it. Nowadays condos and shops have emerged next to the caves. There is a highway nearby and a direct train line connecting it with the city center. Nonetheless the Batu caves are still the nicest thing about KL.
The infrastructure of the city made an impression, especially after a month spent in Indonesia. Skyscrapers and highways are everywhere and not a single traffic jam was spotted during the two days stay. I remembered KL as a city designed for cars, but while true, it is infinitely easier to walk in KL than in any Indonesian city. Public transport truly works, again in contrast to the dysfunctional public transit of Bali. It is all very civilised and almost European like. None of that wild touch of Asia. Similar to Kuta, it was alright for a couple of days before turning tiresome. Fortunately we had our exit plan ready well before entering KL. The next stop on the route was the great unknown of Myanmar. Good-bye well maintained roads and easily accessible excellent food.

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A view over KLCC during the nighttime

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Petronas Towers

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Chinese lanterns and skyscrapers

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A man violently haggling over a watch at Petaling Street.

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Petaling Street, cheap street food, knock-off goods and fake brand clothes

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The entrance to Batu Caves guarded by Vishu

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And the steep steps leading to the cave entrance

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An Indian woman pondering the existence in Batu caves

A new thing to me during this trip to Kuala Lumpur was the butterfly garden. A pleasant way to spend an hour or so, even if you are not a butterfly enthusiast. Pictures as a proof

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A glimpse into an Indian mindset

An Indian restaurant in Georgetown. I am ordering a vegetarian meal and ask a waiter about vegetarian choices. He answers my question with a couple of sentences and without further ado begins to praise lamb and chicken meals they have. Finally I order a vegetarian banana leaf set. When they bring the meal, it comes with three different sauces, which the waiter introduces. Dhaal, another veggie sauce and a CHICKEN SAUCE! If I was a vegetarian, I would be pretty pissed off. Apparently meat-based sauces count as vegetarian meal in Asian mindset. Thai do that too by using oyster sauce in veggie meals.

I got my dose of India in Malaysia and I guess I won’t go to India this time. Doing China and India in one journey is a bit too much for me and I will do the latter sometime next time with a fresh start.

So long Malaysia

After three weeks in Malaysia, I grew totally tired of the country and in the last few days just wanted to get out of there. My camera could not be fixed after all the wait and as a matter of fact is still in the service center thanks to the havoc caused by Chinese New Year. The thought of spending several more days in Penang just to get the camera back was unbearable. Enough is enough. I stayed over the first day of Chinese New Year, which proved to be rather uneventful, just a lot of temple business, firecrackers and other noise. Rather disappointing in fact, but maybe I should have stayed longer. Anyways here are some assorted remarks on Malaysia I made during three weeks.

  • Malaysia is very Western and organized comparing to its northern neighbour. Thailand is just wild. On the other hand Malaysia is a bit boring. There is a handful of tourist destinations, but other than that it is palm plantations as far as the eye can see. I did not even bother to go to Kuala Lumpur this time, as three days spent there two years ago were enough.
  • The strongest point about Malaysia is its multiculturalism. Three different ethnic groups (Malay, Chinese and Indian) living peacefully together as a single nation is truly remarkable.
  • Alcohol is expensive in Malaysia, which might be a major reason why many backpackers do not like the country. E.g. prices on beer are comparable to Finland.
  • Almost everybody speaks English making Malaysia a very easy country to travel. On the other hand, I haven’t learned a single Malay word apart from “bomba”, which stands for a fireman. When I asked a local muslim couple about the meaning and made a remark that “bomba” means a bomb in Russian, they laughed and started making jokes about suicide bombers. How bizarre.
  • Malaysia must lead the world charts with a number of tasteless and/or stupid t-shirts. “My other t-shirt has a graphic on it”, “May I have your attention?”. “Origina-lity is dead”? Yes, at least in the case of this t-shirt designer.

Taman Negara, Aguirre, Riffi Shariff and Shrödinger’s bus

After much hesitation where to head from Cameron Highlands, I chose to go Taman Negara National Park, one of the oldest rain forests on Earth. After an uneventful three-hour minivan ride, I took a boat along Sungai Temebelik river to the park entrance. The boat ride was awesome and I felt almost a character in Aguirre, der Zorn Gottes. There was even a blonde German guy on board, although resemblances to Klaus Kinski end here.

As I feared the park greeted me with with frequent heavy rains, which eventually made my stay at the park rather short (on the other hand Shrödinger’s bus extended my stay by one night, but more on that later). I lodged in Rippi Hostel, probably one of the filthiest and shabbiest hostels to date. Chung King Mansions in Hong Kong takes a prize here, but that’s a whole different level of filth. The sorry state of the hostel was compensated by charisma of the owner Raffi Shariff and his brother. Really cool people, kind of jungle hiking, guitar playing, alcohol bootlegging type (the park is in muslim area). Plus I finally got an answer to the question on the dangers of the jungle. In a nutshell, provided common sense jungle is not very dangerous. Wild animals are of the least concern, as long as you leave them alone. Dengue fever is apparently more common in the urban areas than jungle too. The most serious dangers in the jungle are 1) getting lost 2) spiky plants 3) banal incidents as tripping over or getting hit by a fallen branch. People get lost in the jungle all the time, in rare cases for good. As locals put it: “kidnapped by the spirit jungle”.

The rain made my stay at the park rather messy, but did not ruin my plans. I did a canopy walk and an exhausting 15km hike through trying to reach an aboriginal village. I did not expect much from the canopy walk, but it turned out to be a lot of fun and excitement. Well worth its price, although I did not pay as I tagged along with British girls, who took pictures for Conde Nast Traveller magazine. As for the hike, I walked most of the distance to the village, but turned back after seeing abandoned shacks thinking that it was the village. Talk about epic fail. No wild animal sightings, apart from some birds and way too many blood-sucking leeches. These beasts are surprisingly fast and furious and get to you through the boots and clothes. You do not even have to stop, as they are fast enough to take a ride on while you move. On the other hand, leeches are supposed to be beneficial for you, so it is not all that bad. The bleeding wounds they leave are rather scary looking, though.

This was enough considering the weather, so I had planned to leave on the second day. But the local bus never came, completely ruining my plans to take a night-train to Singapore. Upon several inquiries about the bus, I finally got an explanation “sometimes it comes, sometimes it doesn’t”. Shrödinger’s bus, indeed. I managed to leave the next morning and took a day-train, which resulted in one hand a good night sleep, but on the other hand in one pointless day. Not much to do and nothing to see on the train and no power sockets, so the laptop was of minimal use. Why in this age of digital technologies they cannot equip trains with power sockets is beyond me. Oh well.

Cameron Highlands

Cameron Highlands must be one of the coolest sounding names. Sean Connery, Scotland and Highlander come to mind for some reason. The fact that is in Malaysia, right in the tropics and not somewhere in England only add bonus points. In fact, this place does not feel Asian at all. Cool temperatures, frequent rains and fogs all over the year, green hills, strawberry plantations and Cenral European-like architecture make Cameron Highlands truly stand out. The moment I got here made me really wonder if I am still in Malaysia. Weather is very like Finnish summer with temperature around +20C – +25С in the daytime and around +10C in the nighttime. Very refreshing after the blazing heat of Penang and even cold in the nighttime (socks and a jumper are a must). To make the Finnish summer impression more complete, they even have strawberry plantations here. In fact it is the only place in Malaysia to grow strawberries. A truly exotic fruit from an average Malaysian point of view, unlike for example a durian.
Cameron Highlands sports one of the most stunning scenery I have seen so far. Hills covered with tea plantations are simply breathtaking. The first time I saw all this idyllic beauty I could not believe my eyes and just kept staring in awe. Green hills and blues skies (when it does not rain) are a truly awesome combination. Then there is the idyllic mossy jungle with its entangled tree roots and massive waterfalls powerful enough to support a hydro power-station. A walk through the jungle on one of well-maintained trails (trails number 1 and 9 are the best) puts you right in the epicenter of a fairytale. Not as wild as the jungle on Ko Phangan, but certainly more enjoyable.
Unfortunately as beautiful as this place is, I experienced the place inflation very quickly. After two and half days here and I already got the feeling “been there, done that. Next!”. There is nothing much to do here, apart from jungle hiking and some dubious sights like a butterfly farm (did not go) or numerous strawberry / veggie farms. The next destination is Taman Negara national park, which is one of the oldest rainforests in the world. Will try to fit it into the schedule to make it to Singapore before Friday to see Sven Väth.