Inle lake is undoubtedly the most popular tourist destination in Myanmar. It is still low-profile enough to be a pleasant somewhat sleepy destination, but given the current rate of development it is ought to become a full-on tourist resort very soon. Seeing this development got me thinking of the lake people, who have been doing hard work of fishing and farming for hundreds of years, until about 20 years ago, when the tourist boom kicked in. Suddenly rich white people began pouring in and paying silly money just to see what is granted for the local population. The perspective of selling products and services to tourists instead of farming the land seven days a week is too lucrative to pass, especially when the pay is much better. It must be strange times for the local population.
Anyhow the setting of the lake is feng shui like: water and mountains. Nyangshwe, a town next to the lake, is laid back and pleasant enough to warrant spending a couple of days there. Add floating green islands found on the lake and tribe villages around the lake and you got a winner combination. The ugly side of this mix is rapid commercialisation of the area. We took a boat ride that was supposed to introduce us to the highlights of the lake, but in reality it was hopping from one shop to another. The best part about the trip was an early morning ride to the lake, being chased by gulls and watching posing fishermen, but it went quickly downhill after that. It is not all doom and gloom though. If you avoid the boat ride or negotiate a better deal skipping the shops, it is bound to be an amazing experience.
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Kalaw to Inle in three days
Kalaw is a former British hill station in the Shan state of Myanmar. It is at an elevation of 1350m and 50km from the Inle lake, which makes it a popular hiking route. Initially we planned to do a trek on our own, but everywhere we asked they told us it was no possible citing the reasons like wild animals and military presence. After some research we opted for a three day hike with Sam’s Family Trekking, which is reputed to the best in the area (Jungle King is definitely to be avoided by the stories we heard). Even though it is possible to hike on one’s own, it is a very hard to do for a number of reasons. First of all, there are no maps. Google Maps, for one, is not aware of any villages or roads we walked. The best bet is to download one of the GPS tracks recorded by fellow hikers that can be found on the Internet. Second, there is no tourist infrastructure on the way. No hotels, very little restaurants and shops. In some villages they didn’t even sell bottled water and other villages had unmarked shops that were hidden inside people’s homes. Sleeping in monasteries is definitely an option, but the lack of restaurants and shops on the way is challenging. Thirdly no trekking company will forward your baggage to Inle. We asked at several places and the answer was no. Finally we got so much more out of the trek with a guide and it turned out one of the highlights in Myanmar. Definitely money well spent.