Sanuk

If there is one word to describe Thai culture, it is sanuk: having fun together. Thai culture is all about sanuk, it is one of the most important aspects of the society. First you have sanuk and everything else follows. The rule applies to everything: work, school, leisure, chores and so on. Contrast it with puritan western countries: there is time for work and there is time for having fun. As a curious side-effect, Thais are not big readers. Indeed, reading a book is anti-sanuk, as it can be. You deliberately spend time alone having fun (or not) all on your own. I have never seen a Thai child crying. Granted expressing own negative emotions is not something you do in Asia, but how on Earth you would convince a child not to cry is beyond my understanding.

After I got back to Finland after my surprise holiday, on the way home I systematically sought eye-contact with passers-by. Success-rate for a walk from Rautatientori to Kamppi? Zero. Not a single smile either. Doom and gloom everywhere. Sharing a smile with a stranger in Finland is a curious topic as well. When you smile at the stranger, you get something like this in return: anxious tension ⇒ quick awkward smile ⇒ anxious tension. That’s how we roll.

Finland regularly makes headlines as one of the happiest countries in the world. To see what a blatant lie it is, just take a subway ride in Helsinki in November. Any other month in year will do as well too. To be honest though, in some of these surveys they mistake prosperity with happiness. In 2009 local newspapers and tabloids were full of “Finland – the happiest place on Earth”-type headlines. Upon a further investigation it turned out that the results were based on Legatum Prosperity Index, which does not say a word about happiness. It seems that material well-being equals happiness in the eyes of many people. There are lies, damned lies and statistics, as Benjamin Disraeli eloquently put it. You can gather any numbers together, process them and slap it a moniker as happiness on the result. And then you convince everyone that this is the reality. However, taking a look around and especially travelling to other countries might give you a better picture of how things are, but this is a story for another post.

Epic Journey 2.5: Return To The Beach

Ah, spontaneous traveling we meet again
Monday – started toying with an idea to book a last-minute flight to somewhere. Found two reasonable options – Thailand for 495€ (I have never flown this cheap) or Panama for 595€. Panama is mysterious – there is always a risk of nothing to do, nothing to see and no-one to talk to. 18h bus-trips, being misunderstood and a whole bag of big unknowns. No thanks. Guaranteed quality holiday is preferred. Had Yuan/Had Thien then.
Tuesday – Finished with the exams. Booked my flight.
Wednesday – Flew to Krabi

Helsinki → Krabi → Surat Thani → Donsak → Koh Phangan. The 21h marathon journey and still one songthaew and one boat trip away from the beach. The first impression about Thailand is that well it seems empty. The airplane had at least 1/3 vacant seats. In fact I had four seats for myself and had a relatively good night sleep too. The bus from Krabi to Surat Thani was half empty as well as had only a few tourists. Same goes with the boat to Koh Phangan. Funnily enough the boat ride took over three hours despite no apparent reasons, which led me to the conspiracy theory territory that it was a way of boat operators to compensate for a low number of customers (the longer it takes, the more people buy things they do not really need). Thongsala for the night with its lovely night market and the beach awaits tomorrow.

On the boat I met Frank from the UK. His wife left him five years ago, so he threw out a normal life with a job, children and illusion of security and became a full-time hippy. He has been travelling since then. Life is a funny thing. I asked him what he was really really good at. His response was that he attracts people and people come talk to him. Could not be more true, as it was me who stroke a conversation with him.

PS: A proof that we are living in the future now: “Scientific Crime Detection Center 8” sign spotted in Surat Thani.

ФУЗИОН 2011

Imagine a mix between Alice in Wonderland, Mad Max, a gypsy camp, The Flaming Lips concert, Christmas and an acid trip. This is Fusion in a nutshell. An European take on Burning Man. Five days of non-stop festivities set in an ex-Red Army military airfield. An unstoppable express train that passes by at a blazing speed leaving no trail after it is gone, making you think whether what you saw was a collective dream. The legacy of Soviets is seen in huge military hangars now hosting various stages and a slight touch of the communism spirit. The festival is non-profit, has no sponsors, no promotion is made and cyrillic and Soviet era inspired art is used in the festival propaganda. Despite the lack of promotion, the festival reached its maximum capacity of around 60000 visitors in 2009 and a cap on tickets was introduced. Nowadays tickets are usually sold out in the matter of few days.

Fusion is an example of how a festival should be organized. There are no security checks, no silly rules and regulations nor any authority at the festival. There is nobody to check your bags or ID or to waive their authority in your face. The closest to security you have are Fusionmobiles – pimped up cars Mad Max style cruising around and ensuring that people are having fun. Organizers do not treat people like potential criminals who are there to cause troubles, but like responsible adults. I might add that this strategy works. I have not seen any violence, misconduct or any organizational problems. The whole thing just flows smoothly. Fusion is a festival that is made for people. For example, alcohol and food are sold at the festival area, but nonetheless you are allowed to bring your own, as much as you want. Furthermore, there is a free shuttle to a nearby village to refill your supplies.

Fusion is a festival in the proper sense of the word. It is not a music event with a handful of big name artists. It is not your average party from 9 to 5 in a closely guarded environment. Fusion is about non-stop celebration for five days in a row. There are no dead periods in the festival program, there is always something going on. In fact there is so much going that it feels like five days are not enough and it would take a month to explore just the festival area. The abundance of things to see, hear and experience makes you want come year after year. And every year you discover something new. The lack of big names is in fact a blessing. At least this way you do not have to worry about a rigid schedule and missing out your favorites. Out of the whole festival program I was familiar with at most ten names and had no personal “must-see” artists. I wanted to see Akufen and Ame. Missed both. Saw Beardyman, Awesome Tapes From Africa and Rico Loop instead. No regrets on this part. As a wise man once said, eat when you are hungry, sleep when you are tired and party otherwise. Fusion operates in a free flow mode, just go somewhere and find something interesting and bizarre. For example, I discovered Rock ‘n’ Wrestling show completely by surprise. It was … well.. rock and wrestling. Charles Bronson look-a-like fought villains (including a giant robot) on the stage for the love of a woman. Once the justice prevailed, he kissed the woman and proceeded to play rock, while assistants carried “dead bodies” off the stage. Bizarre. And lovely.

Fusion comprises of more than 20 stages representing all forms of entertainment under the sun. There is a cinema. There is a theater. There is a circus. There is a cabaret (at the end of the world too). There is music to each and every taste. There are all sorts of art installations, shows, workshops and performances. There are many things to blow your mind. One time we walked through a disco ball forest and found a guy there playing on a laser harp. Just like that. It is a massive attack on all sense organs, non-stop for five days and nights. Tons of lights, amazing decorations and fairy tale like constructions. There are a hobbit library, a disco ball forest, abandoned pirate ships and gigantic spider webs. It is Hobbiton, Rivendale, Pirates Of Caribbean and Neverland. All combined on a Soviet army base. It all is very beautiful and very impermanent. The festival area is deconstructed and built again each each, so every year offers something new. Night-time is very special with all the magical lights. Makes you wish that the night would be a little bit longer to fully appreciate all the magic around you. The highlight of this year for me decoration wise was a gigantic 2D tree, which really looked like it was flat thanks to a crafty video projection.

Fusion does not make any sense. It all is about survival in an absurd environment. Last year it was extremely hot during the day and freezing cold in the night. Everybody partied in the night and attempted to sleep in overheated tents in the daytime. Painful. Dust everywhere too. This year was marked with prolonged rains and mud-baths. It started raining on the Friday evening and pretty much never stopped until the festival end. By Saturday night the whole area turned into one massive mud-bath, which made me regret that I had not rubber boots with me. On the other hand, the rain resulted in a lot of sleeping and eating on my part. Almost like the time at a summer cottage with lots of food, lots of sleep and occasional partying. In fact I ended up sleeping more than I normally do at home. Fusion can be truly weird.

It was beautiful. It was bizarre. It ended too early. Until next year then.

On the road again (Epic Journey 2.2)

After an one month break in the Finnish summer I found myself continuing my journey. This time it is an one month adventure around Central Europe. First stop is Berlin, followed by a mayhem at Fusion Festival, followed by an Interrail adventure and finally back home by 29th of July for another short break. Having reached the age of 28, this is the first time I give Interrail a go. Somehow during my high-school years I missed the whole InterRail phenomenon, but then again I really started traveling only when I turned 22. Better late than never.

Progress of my journey (Part 5 – The final)

Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4

Hue (bus, 9€) ⇒ Hoi An (with a stopover at Nha Trang, sleeper bus/another bus 15€) ⇒ Da Lat (a sleeper bus, 9€) ⇒ Saigon (Mekong Air, 25€ ) ⇒ Phu Quoc (speedboat, 9€) ⇒ Ha Tien (bus, 8€) ⇒ Kep, Cambodia (minivan, bus, 6€) -> Sihanoukville ⇒ Koh Rong (boat, 11€ for the roundtrip) ⇒ Sihanoukville (four buses/minivans and one boat, 20€)-> Koh Chang (boat, bus, 6€) ⇒ Bangkok (diesel train, 2nd class, 0.5€) ⇒ Ayuthaya (diesel train, 2nd class, 0.5€) ⇒ Bangkok (Air Berlin, via TGX, 346€) -> Helsinki

Total: 119€ + 346€ for the flight to Helsinki

One particular thing about traveling in Vietnam and Cambodia is that it is extremely slow. Distances that do not look that big on the map can easily take a whole day of traveling, as it for example happened on the route from Sihanoukville to Koh Chang. Phu Quoc to Kep transfer took a greater part of the day too. There is an option in Vietnam to buy a bus pass, which includes eight destinations. And the price is only 40 bucks. Extremely good value, if you do a bit of traveling around Vietnam. I learned about it only after spending some time in Vietnam, which made me very sad. But in the end I did not do enough traveling in Vietnam anyway. On the route from Saigon to Phu Quoc as it was almost the same price as the bus + boat combination and saved me a whole day of travelling. Boats are never cheap.

A quick recap of Epic Journey 2: The Orient Express


View Epic Journey 2: The Orient Express in a larger map

  • The total price of moving from one place to another is 1262€
  • 8/10/2010 – 02/06/2011. Almost eight months of travelling. I aimed for a 9 months travel to make the journey more symbolic, but had to come back when I had to come back.
  • 11 countries visited (Macau and Hong Kong included)
  • I flew only thrice. Hong Kong ⇒ Bangkok, Saigon ⇒ Phu Quoc and Bangkok ⇒ Helsinki
  • The longest stretch by land: Helsinki ⇒ Hong Kong.
  • The most comfortable way to travel is high-speed trains in China
  • The least comfortable is crappy buses everywhere. The bus from Ulan Ude to Ulan Bator probably takes the lead.
  • Summer began in December for me
  • I saw a little bit of snow in Siberia and Mongolia, though